Bo Innovation, Hong Kong

October 16, 2011 § Leave a comment

Our last and most satisfactory meal in Hong Kong was at Bo Innovation, known for their deconstruction and subsequent re-imagining of classic Chinese dishes. I had the Bo Set Lunch, which is a great opportunity to get a taste of what Bo Innovation does so well.The Bo Set Lunch comes with a choice of 2 dim sum or classic ‘bo’ dishes, a main course, starch, and dessert du jour. My first choice was the cauliflower risotto with black truffle and duck jus. I was expecting something rather heavy, but was pleasantly surprised by the refreshingly light, yet satisfying nature of the dish. The richness of the duck jus is nicely cut by the creamy tartness of the risotto.

Next up was the foie gras potsticker (I never say no to foie gras). The foie filling was nice, well seasoned, and the wrapper was crisp, if a bit on the thick side. All in all a well composed bite.

I opted for the slow-cooked suckling pig with Chinese vinegar and egg for my main. The creaminess of the egg and the tartness of the vinegar were well balanced but I would have liked more texture contrast in the pig. I was expecting some of the fatty crispness suckling pig is known for, but the meat was uniform in texture, nicely tender. A nice crunch of pig skin would have made this dish perfect.

Dessert was the weakest link. I believe this was a take on an apple crumble, but it wasn’t memorable enough for me to be certain. The texture of the apple ball was strangely chewy, a little mealy. The foam component simply couldn’t hold up to its denseness. The texture balance was my main issue with the dish, but the flavor palette was also off (too sour) and I was dubious about the green sprigs, which I suppose were intended to balance the color composition of the dish rather than add anything to the flavor experience. All in all an edible dessert, but disappointing after the compelling appetizers and main.

Before coming to Bo, I was honestly not expecting to finish lunch. I had eaten half a fatty goose for breakfast and was feeling nauseous. It was, then, a true pleasure to find Bo Innovation’s use of traditionally heavy, fatty ingredients light, refreshing, and interesting.

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